create a stereoscopic image for crossed eye Image Viewing

Final Image Preview

 

 

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Step 1

We are going to start with a 900 pixel by 900 pixel image with a black background.

 

 

Step 2

Add some white text in the center on a 45 degree angle, I went with “Psdtuts+” in Century Gothic Bold at 200 pixels tall. Let’s add some color to the text, on a new layer I added a 45 degree gradient to a selection of the text in pure green. Let’s also add a black Inner Glow using a layer style just to soften the edges.

Add a 2 pixel white stroke of the text on its own layer. Move it up 5 pixels and to the right 5 pixels. Then let’s add a red Outer Glow layer style to it. We are done with the text so let’s clean up our layers a bit. Put all of the text layers in their own group and call it “text.”

 

Step 3

Now let’s start adding some elements around the text that we can move around later that will give us our 3D effects. On a new layer use a 65 pixel soft edge brush and create some random white dots around the text with it (a single click of the mouse). Do the same thing on another layer but with a 21 pixel size brush.

On another new layer, using the same 65 and 21 pixel sized brushes, draw a bunch of random dots all around the text, use both black and white colors.

Then apply a 45 degree motion blur of 500 pixels.

Duplicate the blurred dots layer twice and set their modes to Color Dodge. Let’s continue to keep our PSD clean and put all of these layers in their own group and call it “Dots.”

Let’s add one more line of text before we start modifying the layers to create our 3D stereoscopic effect. I went with “Stereoscopic Imagery” in white and placed it slightly on top of our “Psdtuts+” text. I added a Drop Shadow, black Inner Glow and 1 pixel red Stroke using layer styles.

 

Step 4

Now that we have our basic artwork created we are going to begin modifying all of these elements so that they appear 3D once we view them using the crossed eye method (more on that in the next step). To keep things organized let’s put all of our layers in a group and name it “Left Eye.”

Increase your canvas size from the center left so that it is double the width (1800 pixels).

Duplicate the “Left Eye” group and name it “Right Eye.” Then move it all to the right portion of the canvas.

 

We are going to slightly move some layers around on the canvas in the “Right Eye” group, use the arrow keys on your keyboard for this part. Select the “Small Dots Copy” layer and move it up 7 pixels, then to the right 7 pixels. Select the “Big Dots Copy” layer and move it up 10 pixels, then to the right 10 pixels.

Now select the “Stereoscopic Imagery Copy” text layer and move it up 7 pixels, then to the right 7 pixels. Select the “Stroke Copy” layer and move it up 7 pixels, then to the right 7 pixels. Select the “Color Copy” layer and “Psdtuts+ Copy” text layer and move them up 4 pixels, then to the right 4 pixels.

 

Step 5

Now that we have our stereoscopic image complete, it’s time to view it in 3D! This might be easy for some, and tricky for others to do, but once you get the hang of it you will have no problems doing it in a matter of seconds. I have added a red circle to the center of both images to help you train your eyes on how to do this.

Look at the following steps and images, then when you are ready, use the image above to try it out.

Sit a comfortable distance away from your monitor and hold you index finger out in front of your monitor. Position the tip of your finger in the middle of the two images. Focus your vision on the tip of your finger and in your peripheral vision just above your finger you should be able to see the two images slightly merging.

While still focusing on your index finger, move your finger closer or farther from your monitor until you see the two images merge together. Once you have them merged, slightly move your focus off of your finger and up to your monitor. The merged image should appear cleanly focused and in a nice layered 3D fashion, if it doesn’t just clear your focus and try again. You can also try getting closer to your monitor.

 

 

Golden Text Effect Using Photoshop

Final Image Preview

 

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Step 1: Setting the Stage
 
Let’s start by making a new document in Photoshop. I created a new document sized 500 x 500 pixels with all the default settings, RGB, 72 DPI, etc.
 
After creating your document, set the Foreground color to #393943 and the Background color to #100e19, then fill the Background with a Radial Gradient.
 
Duplicate the Background layer (Ctrl+J).

 

Double click the “Background copy” layer to apply a Pattern Overlay layer style. Change the Blend Mode to Multiply, the Opacity to 70%, and the Scale to 25%. Use the starnetblog_tileable_metal_texture8.jpg image from the 9 tileable metal textures pack, (it is also the second pattern in the .pat file), as the Pattern.

You can play around with the values, for example, other good layer modes to use in this case are Soft Light, Vivid Light, and Color Dodge. You can as well choose different patterns, but you might need to adjust the Scale value if you do so.

Get out the Rectangular Marquee Tool. Click the Add to Selection icon in the Options bar at the top, and set the Style to Fixed Size, then type 50% in both the Width and Height boxes. Drag your selection onto the canvas then into the bottom right corner of your canvas, do the same but in the top left corner.

Create a new layer on top of all layers and call it “Dark Squares”, and fill the selections with the Background color (#100e19). Go to Select -> Deselect (or press Ctrl + D) to get rid of the selections.

Lower the Opacity for this layer to 25%.

Use a large soft brush to erase away the center (middle area) of the squares, so you get something like this:

 

Create a new layer on top of all layers and call it “Light Squares”. Repeate the previous steps to create two more selections in the empty corners, and this time use the Foreground color (#393943) to fill the selections.

Create another new layer on top of all layers and call it “Grunge Brush”. Use the brushes from the Grungy Brush package to add a bit of grunge at the bottom of the document, using the Foreground color (#393943) as the brush color.

Change the layer’s Blend Mode to Multiply and lower the Opacity to something around 40%.

 

Step 2: Setting Up your Text

This is the easy part. Get out the Horizontal Type Tool (T) and write your text in whatever color you want. The font used is Impact, and the size is 80px. You can use any other font you like, bolder fonts give a better result.

 

Double click the text layer to apply the following Layer Styles:

- Drop Shadow: Change the Opacity to 85%, the Distance to 2, and the Size to 15.

 

- Inner Shadow: Change the Blend Mode to Color Dodge, the color to #a98e0f, the Opacity to 50%, the Distance to 1, and the Size to 0.

- Inner Glow: Change the Blend Mode to Linear Dodge, the Opacity to 55%, the color to #fae48f, the Size to 3, and the Range to 70%.

- Gradient Overlay: Check the Reverse box, and change the Scale to 55%.

Click the Gradient box to create the gradient using the colors #fae48f, #ffc230 and #9f7f00. Position the color stops as shown below:

This is how your text should look like after applying the Layer Styles:

The last thing we’re going to do is adding some sparkles! So create a new layer on top of all layers, set the Foreground color to white, and use a sparkles brush to create some sparkles around your text.

Final Image

And that’s it! This is what your text should look like:

 

Cropping photos to specific sizes in photoshop

569192dragborder

 

 In this Photoshop tutorial, we're going to look at how to easily crop a photo to whatever frame size you need.
 
A common question we receive has to do with resizing photos. Specifically, how do you resize a photo to a standard frame size like 5×7", 8×10" or 11×14" without distorting the photo and making everyone in it appear tall and thin or short and fat?
 

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Here's an example of the problem. I take many of my photos with a Canon Digital Rebel XT, which is an 8MP camera. Here's a photo I took with it last winter:
 
850189original.jpg (683×458)
 
The original photo.
 
 
Now, let's say I want to print this photo as an 8×10" so I can frame it. Since the photo was taken with an 8MP camera, getting a professional quality 8×10" print from it shouldn't be a problem. Let's look at the pixel dimensions of this image so we can see exactly what size it is. I'm going to open Photoshop's Image Size dialog box by going up to the Image menu at the top of the screen and choosing Image Size. If we look at the Pixel Dimensions section at the top of the dialog box, we can see that my photo, as it appears straight out of the camera, has a width of 3456 pixels and a height of 2304 pixels:
 
650767imagesize.gif (414×342)
Photoshop's Image Size dialog box showing the pixel dimensions of the photo.
 
 
The Pixel Dimensions section tells us exactly how many pixels our image is made of, but it has nothing to do with the size the image will print. To view or change the photo's print size, we need to turn to the Document Size section of the dialog box. Currently, the Document Size section is telling us that at a resolution of 240 pixels per inch, which is a standard resolution for professional quality printing, my photo will print at a size of 14.4×9.6 inches. That's certainly a decent size photo, but I probably wouldn't have much luck finding a frame that fits it. If I want to print the image and frame it, I'll first need to resize it to a standard frame size, like 8×10".
 
Let's see what happens when I try to change the print size of the photo to 8×10" using the Image Size dialog box, which is normally what we use when resizing images. Since my photo is in landscape mode (meaning the width is larger than the height), I'm actually going to want a 10×8" photo, so I'll change the Width value in the Document Size section to 10 inches. I want to make sure I don't distort the aspect ratio of the image when I resize it, so I'm going to select the Constrain Proportions option at the bottom of the dialog box, which tells Photoshop to change the height of the image automatically according to the new width value I've entered. I'll go ahead and change the Width to 10 inches:
 
 
Changing the print size of the image in the Document Size section.
I've now changed the width of my photo to 10 inches, and because I had the Constrain Proportions option selected, we can see above that Photoshop went ahead and changed the height of my photo to… 6.667 inches?? That's not right. We need a 10×8" photo, not 10×6.667". Hmm… I guess I'll just have to change the Height to 8 inches myself:
 
774000imagesize2.gif (414×342)
Changing the height of the image manually in the Document Size section.
 
Okay, there we go. I've changed the height of the photo to 8 inches, and now the Document Size section is telling me that my photo is going to print perfectly at…. 12×8"?! Hey, what's going on? All I want to do is change the print size to 10×8", but if I change the width value, the height is wrong, and if I change the height value, the width is wrong! How do I resize the photo to 10×8"?
 
The answer is, you can't. At least, not by trying to resize the image with the Image Size dialog box. The original dimensions of the photo won't allow us to resize it to a 10×8" without distorting the look of the image, which we don't want to do. So what do we do then? Simple! We forget about the Image Size dialog box and instead, we crop the photo to the exact size we want! For that, we use Photoshop's Crop Tool!
 
Step 1: Select The Crop Tool
The first thing we need to do is select the Crop Tool, so either grab it from the Tools palette or press the letter C on your keyboard to select it with the shortcut:
 
mini_243595selectcroptool.gif (80×128)
Select the Crop Tool.
 
Step 2: Enter The Exact Print Dimensions You Need In The Options Bar
With the Crop Tool selected, if you look up in the Options Bar at the top of the screen, you'll see a Width and Height option where you can enter in the exact width and height you need, along with the type of measurement (inches, centimeters, pixels, etc). Since I want to crop my image to a 10×8", I'm going to enter 10 into the Width option, followed by a "in" which stands for "inches". Then I'll enter 8 into the Height option followed by another "in" for "inches":
 
 
155052optionsbar.gif (669×55)
Entering the exact width and height in the Options Bar.
 
Step 3: Drag Out A Cropping Border
Once you've entered the exact size you need, simply click inside your image and drag out a cropping border. The area inside the border is the part of the photo you'll be keeping, and everything outside the border (which appears darker) will be cropped away. You'll notice as you drag that the shape of your border is now fixed, and that's because we set the aspect ratio of the border when we entered the exact width and height we needed into the Options Bar. The only thing we can do is adjust the overall size of the border by dragging any of the four corner handles. You can also reposition the border inside the image by moving your cursor inside the border (it will change into a black arrow), then clicking and dragging the border around with your mouse:
 
569192dragborder.jpg (650×458)
Drag out a cropping border with the Crop Tool.
 
 
Step 4: Press Enter / Return To Crop The Image
When you're happy with the size and position of your cropping border, simply press Enter (Win) / Return (Mac) to have Photoshop crop the image:
 
918221imagecropped.jpg (571×458)
Press Enter (Win) / Return (Mac) to crop the image.
 
And just like that, I've successfully cropped my image to a 10×8" without distorting it. If we go back to the Image Size dialog box once again by going up to the Image menu and choosing Image Size, we can see that sure enough, the Document Size section is now showing a width of 10 inches and a height of 8 inches:
 
558931imagesize4.gif (414×342)
The image will now print successfully at 10×8".
 
And there we have it! That's how easy it is to crop an image to any frame size you need in Photoshop!
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